Christian Dior Resort 2023
An Andalusian Christian Dior drama played out in the center of Seville: the stage held by two black-clad gypsy flamenco stars, 40 dancers, and a 110 resort looks which walked against the backdrop of the Plaza de Espana. Maria Grazia Chiuri had immersed herself in researching the traditions, crafts, histories, and female heroes of this region of southern Spain. “I really love the area,” she said in a preview. “You feel that tradition is really alive here. I recognize a lot of myself in this Mediterranean idea of women. I’ve felt a strong link and connection.”
The female flamenco dancer, giving her leaping, stamping, head-tossing performance in a black velvet suit was an almost exact reincarnation of the woman who had chiefly inspired Chiuri. “She was Carmen Amaya, who was the first female flamenco dancer to wear men’s clothes, in the 1950s. They called her La Capitana—a great name! She went to Paris and became very famous.” That one image started her off on a masculine-tailoring footing. Out strode an opening section of clean, lean, super high-waisted matador pants, embroidery, and passementerie, topped with locally-made men’s sombreros in black and white, and looks referencing the pristine equestrian uniforms of Spanish riding schools.
It was a pitch-perfect device for Chiuri, who’s imprinted her idea of androgynous, feminist dressing on Christian Dior from the first. She followed with romantic but reined-in references to off-the-shoulder flounced flamenco dresses in taffeta, subtle layerings of darkly sexy lace and black leather, black and white “arabesque” prints; then intensely detailed silhouettes in a deep carnation red.